Goodwill Video Game Buying Guide

For a long time Goodwill has been a good source for LEGOs and Video Games for me , but sometimes I’ve just broken even when reselling. To prevent others from losing money , I thought I’d make a guide.

(NOTE : This Guide is for older Systems , not Modern.


Though there’s a few exceptions , most SPORTS Video Games for SEGA Genesis , NES , SNES , N64 , and others are basically worthless unless you intend on doing something like making a Video Game Reproduction with it.


Also Games that were EXTREMELY POPULAR , especially Pack-Ins (Games included with the System) are , though fun , virtually worthless. They were mass-produced , so many of them are out there.


Lastly , GAMES BASED ON TV SHOWS , GAME SHOWS , OR BOARD GAMES are usually useless. Though TV-Show Based Games can be worth some , most are not.


Now , let’s assess Games with Value. My local Goodwill charges a flat rate of $5 for Games , so these titles should bring in more money than that so you will profit.


THE LEGEND OF ZELDA  , especially Gold Cartridge Games , usually carry some value.

METAL GEAR : SOLID (GBC)  is a rare title , but it’s usually readily available for a high-ish price .

SEGA SATURN GAMES are generally worth lots of money. There are few that are worth less than $10.


I hope this guide helps you , GOD BLESS!


How to Build a LEGO Miles “Tails” Prower

Today I will show you how to construct a LEGO Miles “Tails” Prower. I’ve included pictures of all the pieces you need for each section.

tails online

First , we will start with the head. Here are the pieces required:


First , take your yellow 2×2 and attach to two yellow slopes pieces:


Now get your 2×2 white plate and attach one 1×1 with clip to the plate like so:


Now take two 1×1 plates and attach a black stud to the bottom of each.


Now place them on top of the plates with the clips:


Now get the pieces pictures below:


Stack on top of the other with the 1×1 white plate on the bottom and place it  between the eyes like this:


Now turn it around and place a 1×1 Brick in the empty space. The result will look like this:


Now add the yellow Brick with ears you built earlier:


Now place a yellow stud on the bottom in the middle. This will allow the head to swivel :


Next comes the body. Here are the required pieces :


Now place a 1×2 yellow Brick under the 2×2 yellow plate:


Now put two Bricks with a stud on the side in the front so they face the left and right :


Now place a 1×3 piece on each stud like this pictured :


Now place a plate with knob on the end of  each arm :.


Next you will place a 1×2 plate with pole on the back of the body :


Next place a 1×2 yellow plate under the body like this :


Next are the tails. They are very simple. Place 2 plates with knobs on the plate with the pole. Place a 1×2 while plate on each knobbed plate , and place a tooth piece under each. I know it sounds terrifyingly hard , but here’s a pic of how simple it truly IS!:



Now place the head on the body. Place it so that the yellow stud under the head is in the middle of the 2×2 on the top of the body :


This last part is the easiest. Here are your pieces needed :


Do I even need to describe this step?


Put that together and attach it to the 1×2 with the clips like sooo:


Now place a yellow 1×2 plate on top of the plate with clips :


Now attach this to the front of the bottom of the body and your DONE!!! :


YOU DID IT! I soo proud of you! Anyway , thanks for reading , and I hope you get the best results. GOD BLESS!!

How to Fix “Jittery” Atari Paddle Controllers

Atari’s 2600 Joystick is likely the most popular Controller for the system ; it’s simple , iconic , and it gets the job done.  While it may be the most popular , some Games require you to use another type of Controller : the Paddle.


The Paddle is basically a paddle-shaped Controller with a knob on top and a red button on the side. It is required to play Games such as Breakout , Super Breakout , Street Racer , and many other Games. Though an amazing Controller , the Paddle is prone to “jittering” ; the item the Paddle controls jittering or shaking onscreen while the knob is being turned. This makes it very hard to play some Games , as quick reaction time and precise Sprite movement are needed when you’re trying to hit that ball back against the multi-colored wall! This guide requires a lot of work , and it can prove  harder than it looks.


First thing you’ll wanna do is remove the two screws on the bottom of the Controller.


Then , you will want to remove the knob. This can be done by pulling straight up on the knob ; no twisting , just pulling.


Use an adjustable wrench or pliers to remove the nut under the knob.

Now , the part that senses the movement of the knob will be free.


The next step is rather tricky.


Those little metal flaps seen must be bent back. This can be done using a small flat-head screwdriver , a knife , or anything small enough to get under the flaps. Bend the flaps back to free the rest of the contraption.


You will find this inside. Separate it from the other parts. Now you must clean it THOROUGHLY .


Soak the bottom completely and clean the metal part and under the winged flaps. Be careful though not to be too strong with your cleaning so that you don’t break the metal. Be sure that you clean very well so that you don’t have to re-clean the Paddle.

Also clean the metal casing so that any goop will not get back on.

Next , clean the circular sensing part:


This will take a lot of cleaning , just like with the other part. Continue to clean it with a alcohol-soaked Q-Tip until there is no gunk , then remove the alcohol (and remaining goop) with a dry Q-Tip.

Now , reassemble the contraption , keeping in mind that  first the black part goes into the casing , then the circular sensing part , then the metal part with the grooves on top.


While it’s partly disassembled , make sure to test the controller.


Now , place it back into the Paddle. Make sure that the part attaching the wires points towards the bottom of the Controller (Where the “Paddle” Sticker is on the other side) .

Make sure the button is on correctly and that the wire is coming out of the Controller through the hole.


Make sure also that the two wires are away from each other , so that they do not connect , which could possibly cause some “jitters”.


Now put the nut back , and make sure it’s nice and tight , because if it’s loose it will cause “jitters”.


Now put the knob back on and you’re done!!


I hope my guide helped you , GOD BLESS!

Tips to Get Your NES Running Again!


NES. Known also as the Famicom (“Family Computer”) or just “Nintendo”  , the Nintendo Entertainment System still stands strong today as a functioning System , and there are also companies today making reproduction NES’s . But if you’re like me and using the original products , you may have encountered problems with them , some due to age , and some due to design. You may think your old NES is worthless because it won’t function , but there is almost no way that it CAN’T be returned to functioning order ; as an added bonus , most of the methods can be used with common household products or with cheap materials.

Problems include scrambled images , the NES turning on and off rapidly , and it not functioning. This occurs from dirt / dust on the 72-Pin connector (“Cartridge reader” for those who don’t know) or on the Cartridges , and the blinking is put into action by a chip (“10NES” lockout chip) designed to lock out pirated or unlicensed Games (Supposedly , cutting the fourth pin on this lockout chip will eliminate the blinking , but I’m not willing to risk). Lastly , the 72-Pin connector may be over-worn.

Those who grew up with the NES remember blowing the Cartridge to get the Games to work with the System. That will work temporarily , but not only will the problem return , but it blows the dust and/or dirt into the insides of the Cartridge.

You will not want to blow the contacts of the Cartridge , but instead clean it with a Q-Tip or a specially designed Cleaning Swab:


It’s not required to resume function , but it is good to clean the insides if possible , but Cartridges often use special screws that can only be unscrewed with a special bit. These bits can be purchased online and are easy to find.

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Follow this guide for cleaning the Cartridge and repeat if needed. Now that the Cartridge has been taken care of , we must evaluate the 72-Pin connector.

Cleaning the dust or dirt from the 72-Pin connector CAN be done by putting rubbing alcohol on a Cartridge and putting it in the NES , but this is not really a good idea , as it is not designed to clean the System and whatever dirt on the Cartridge is possibly transferred to the Pins and vice-versa. I recommend getting a NES Cleaning Kit. I bought my NAKI NES Cleaning Kit at my favorite store for a buck , and it really helps out.


This Cartridge is designed to clean the 72-Pin connector by the included solution (likely just rubbing alcohol) being applied to the “Contacts” and the Cartridge being inserted into the NES. Also , the solution can be applied to the swabs and , as shown above , can be used to clean the Cartridge contacts.

I hope my guides help you in getting your NES running! Thank you for reading , GOD BLESS!

Star Wars Episode I Monopoly Game

Today’s post was originally going to be about how the new Monopoly Empire Game excludes Jail and replaces locations with brands , but it was too short so I added my Star Wars Monopoly Game to it. I later took out the Monopoly Empire part , as it was swallowed whole by my Star Wars Game. So today’s post is about my 1999 Star Wars Episode I Monopoly Game. I included lots of nice Pictures in this post so enjoy!


Betcha can’t guess where I got this? Goodwill , of course! I paid about four dollars for this and everything but the box is in GREAT CONDITION! At my local Goodwill , they don’t treat their stuff very well : they wrote the price on this box and used lots of packing tape to keep it shut. Nonetheless , it’s amazing. Though Episode One may not be my favorite Star Wars Film , I don’t hate it at all. Its got lots of nice Star Wars Figures and Cards as well as the Game Board with Star Wars locations and Star Wars Credits!

Here is a Picture of the Game Board!


Here is everything in the box:


From what I can tell by reading the Instruction Manual , this is complete and even has a few extra pieces! The open slots in the box are for the players’ Credits.

Here are the Figurines!





And my favorite : The Emperor!


What do you guys think of this Monopoly Game? Do you like it? Please comment what you think! GOD BLESS!

Sonic the Hedgehog Genesis (GBA) Review

Sonic the Hedgehog Genesis was released in 2006 for the Nintendo Game Boy Advance System. The Game is a port of the hit 1991 Video Game for the SEGA Mega Drive/Genesis and also has an “Anniversary Mode” where Sonic can Spin-Dash , an ability originally not seen until Sonic the Hedgehog 2. The Game has been reviewed as a terrible port of the original by others , and today I will review the Game myself.


I got my copy on eBay (won an Auction) for $8.18 . From the reviews I read , I expected it to be a Glitchy mess , something I might not have been able to beat. When I got it , I found that all the Reviews had one thing in common : they were all WRONG.


(Sorry , my Camera doesn’t do well with screens)

When you first start the Game you get “Licensed by Nintendo” followed by the Classic “Say Guh!” that we all know ; something that you would never hear back in the 90’s. The user is then greeted with the above. Just like the original version , the Game goes into Demo if the Start Button isn’t pressed within a certain amount of time. Once Start is pressed , a Menu opens up allowing the player to choose Original Mode , where the original Classic is played , Anniversary Mode , where Sonic can Spin-Dash , and Options where the player can turn either the Sound Effects or BGM or both on or off . The Juke Box option is unlocked if the Game is beaten. Beating the Final Boss in Original Mode unlocks all the Sound Effects. Beating it in Anniversary Mode unlocks all the BGM (Back Ground Music).



If a Zone is beaten in one Mode , it is unlocked saved in its own data , and unlocked and saved on the other , so you don’t have to beat the Game twice.


The Game saves your progress automatically , but if you want to delete it , hold the Left and Right Trigger and press Start while on the Title screen and you will be given the option to delete it or not.

This Game was criticized for its jerky and sometime slowed down Gameplay , bad Music , the fact that the Game was zoomed in a little to accommodate the GBA , the idea that the Game can’t keep up with Sonic , making him unable to be seen , in which case he could get attacked by an unexpected enemy , and Glitches. All of these are untrue , except the slowdown and a few Glitches. Also the second (Music) is subjective so that doesn’t really count , and the third (Zoom-In) is not a problem. Here is my Review of those:

Jerky Gameplay:

It is claimed that this Game has jerky Gameplay. This is not true. There is a little bit of “bouncing” when going up a slope , but that is not jerky.

Slowed Down Gameplay:

There are slowdowns if too many things are happening at once. This also happened with the original Genesis version , but not as easily as with this. To make it just as good as the original , go to “Options” and turn off the BGM and SFX.

Bad Music:

This Game’s Music is a GBA remix of the SEGA Genesis original. The Music is very “GBA-y” and emulates the original Music. I could see how this would upset someone , but the Music is not bad at all.

Zoom In:

There is a bit of a Zoom-In to make up for the difference between a regular TV and the GBA’s screen. This makes a little bit of the top and a little bit of the bottom of the Game appear to be cut-off , but it’s only noticeable a few times throughout the Game . No problem at all.

Sonic speeding ahead of the screen? Not a chance , ever. I played the whole Game , Spin-Dashed , and matched (and sometimes even beat) my time records that I had on the original version with no screen being left behind.


In the Game there are very few “added” or “new” Glitches. The only real Glitch that I have found is that if you stand in between the Crusher and the floor in the Final Boss and the Crusher lifts , it will count as a crush and Sonic will lose a life. I’ve heard of other Glitches involving moving objects that can crush , but this is the only one I’ve encountered.

There are differences between this version and the original , like the Music , some of the Sounds and the Spin-Dash , but that’s part of the fun of it! There are very little “physical” changes made to the Game , and the Graphics are perfectly intact .

Honestly , this Game is a good port of the original ; though it’s not Arcade Perfect , it’s a lot like the original while being a fun remix. In my opinion , this Game is VERY underrated , and I gave it the Review it deserves. Thank you for reading , GOD BLESS!

SEGA Genesis AV Adapter Revised Review

I got my Genesis for $20 from a woman at my Church. The RF Unit was great , but
I was getting tired of it fading to static and looking fuzzy. To solve this , I
bought the AV Adapter . I must say , it gives PERFECT , SHARP Video and STUNNING
, CLEAR Audio. It’s much easier to plug in and use than the RF Unit , because I
had to set mine to Channel 4 since the Game was extra-fuzzy on Channel 3 (TV is
on that Channel , so there was interference) and you have to use the remote to
get to that Channel (it won’t let you do it from the TV , which I would like to
do when I go to turn on the Genesis). With this I could just change it to the AV
Channel and turn on the Genesis.

By now you’re probably wondering what
the problem is with this product. Well , here it is. When you use the AV Adapter
on a Model 2 Genesis (Can’t speak for anything else , as I don’t own a Model 3 ,
Nomad , or 32X) and you play ANY Sonic Game (excluding Spinball and Mean Bean
Machine ; there are no Rings in the latter) you have a big problem with the
Rings Sounds and BGM. When you get one Ring : nice , great sounding , “GLING”.
Next time , very faint , almost impossible to hear when running through multiple
Rings , “gling” , just like with the Emulated Compilations made for Modern
Systems. Also most of the Music in STH3 and S&K sounds off. Very , VERY
annoying . I also found that the Sub-Boss Music was missing the main part of the
BGM in Sonic 3 and Knuckles! Plus the Final Boss BGM in Sonic 2 was “Drowned
out” by the Death EGG Robot stomping. That pushed me off the edge , to the point
that I wanted to return the Product. But , before I did that , I did some
experimenting . I put the red wire in the white hole and that fixed the STH2
Final Boss Music and the S3K Sub-Boss Music , but then the Doomsday Zone Boss
was missing part of the BGM. So that meant I had to switch the cables around
when a different BGM plays. Very troublesome.

After a few days using this
, I switched back to the RF Unit. I plugged it in a fidgeted with it and got the
Picture quality looking much better. This cable has way too many Sound problems
, and no amount of crystal clear Picture can make up for that. The idea is good
, but it doesn’t work. If I try again , I will get the one made by Retro-Bit ,
as they seem more quality. This is what mine was like , and it MAY just be this
cable , but I’m not sure. If you can think of a way to fix any of these problems
, please tell me in the comment section below. GOD BLESS!

The Best of the Best Video Game Merchandise

Along with most successful Video Games comes merchandise such as Action Figures , Plushies , and LCD Mini-Games , though the latter fazed out a few years ago. Since I’m a big fan of Sonic and Pac-Man , I thought I should post about the best of the best merchandise. Let’s Start off with Pac-Man!

LCD Pac-Man Game


This is the cooler Lit one that is transparent. It’s got lots of extra functions like Pause , New Game , Two Player , Sound ON/OFF , and Player/Check. The Zones consist of multiple “Floors”  that make up the map.

Arcade Candy Tin


The Arcade Candy Tin is amazing. It has lots of details and is low-priced. Look at the Game Screen!

Light-Up Sound-Making Ornaments


Though these are rather expensive , they are totally worth it. Press a Button and the Screen and Banner light up while sounds from the Game play. They retailed around $30 each when they came out , but the price is bound to have changed by now.

Ms./Pac-Man and Ghost Wind-Up


This is my NM Ms. Pac-Man 1982 Wind-Up. The fact that Ms. Pac-Man has pretty much been left out from all the modern Pac-Man Games makes it even more cool , as there isn’t anymore merchandise like this.


Pac-Man and Ghost (Blinky) Wind-Ups

These look great! You wind them up and they race around in circles. Plus the box can be closed back , unlike the Carded Ms. Pac-Man Wind-Up.

Pac-Man Bandages


Very unique and only a Dollar! Nice and Nerdy!

That’s all for Pac-Man . Now time for Sonic!

Dr. Eggman (Robotnik) Plushie


Though Sonic X was terrible , there was still some good merchandise that relates to the Games. This Robotnik Plushie is a great figure that is one of the stars of my collection.

Sonic Spinball Machine

online 4

This is a fun machine with artwork from Sonic the Hedgehog Spinball (Game Gear/Master System). It’s got fun Sound Effects and a flashing light. It also has an LCD Display that will display a Score up to 99,999 Points.

Sonic the Hedgehog Archie Comics


Though the Archie Comics are a little too expansive compared to how the Games are (which are also too expansive themselves!) it’s still good to have something similar to the TV Shows , since the only good one was SatAM and that and the others are all gone.

Nooowwww…… for the best merchandise that BOTH Pac-Man AND Sonic have in common…..


TV GAMES!!! It is the cheapest way to get Arcade Perfect ports of Classic Games , since the Games on Virtual Console and Live Arcade are Emulations , not Ports. TV Games Still remain today , though Pac-Man TV Games are pretty much gone.

That’s today’s late post. I hope you like it! Please Comment , GOD BLESS!

LEGO Community : We Need a T-AFOL Magazine!!

I received a LEGO Magazine yesterday , and I was somewhat disappointed when it only took me about 30 seconds to see all the TFOL worthy content. That got me thinking. We T-AFOL’s need our own LEGO Mag! I know it’s not LEGO’s main goal to please T-AFOL’s (we rarely see UCS Sets anymore) but someone (even if not licensed by LEGO) needs to make a T-AFOL Mag. Kinda like with those “Genesis Fan” and “Saturn Fan” Mags back in the 90’s. Think of that famous website , The Brick Blogger. The Admin there makes posts that could definitely make good Magazine material . People like her and me and other Fans could make a great magazine. Though we don’t have the money or power to do such things (maybe TBB does) there is still someone who can make a Magazine like that. What do you guys think? We need one! Please tell me your opinion , GOD BLESS!

New BrickFilm: The LEGO Soda Machine

After a whole 6 days without a post , I’m finally back , and with a worthy excuse: a new BrickFilm!


(Click the Picture to view the BrickFilm)

It took a long time to make , and I made a large time-consuming mistake. I spent I-don’t-know-how-long started recording all the Audio onto a video that would be added to the animation , but I wound up just trashing it and recording it all at once and adding other sounds to it later. I ended up with a great video that is probably the best one I’ve made. I hope you like it 🙂 ! I’m sorry I haven’t had many posts. It’s been that way because :

1. I have Family from California here in GA visiting.

2. I have been working on this BrickFilm.
3. I have been working on NXT Projects.

I plan on making better posts soon! Please comment , GOD BLESS!